Ama Dablam

The Jewel of the Himalayas

Fahad Badar recounts his January 2021 winter ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal, the technical challenges and the difficult descent after reaching the summit.

The renowned and majestic peak of Ama Dablam, a name that translates as ‘Mother’s necklace’, is a beautiful mountain. At 6,812 meters, it is lower than the highest Himalayan peaks but it is technically challenging, featuring a formidable sheer section on the upper slopes known as the Yellow Tower. I was attempting the climb in winter, compounding the challenge. Also, owing to the lockdowns resulting from the Covid-19 pandemic during 2020, it would be a year since my previous expedition. I had sought to stay fit with a rigorous training regime - but this does not fully compensate for lack of experience on the mountains, and lack of time at altitude.

I struggled with sickness for much of the expedition. My breathing was impaired, such that I feared I had contracted Covid, despite having tested negative on entry to the country. It was more probably altitude sickness. Close to the summit, I needed to use supplemental oxygen, not always necessary on Ama Dablam. My vision was affected also. Despite this, I reached the summit, a proud achievement for me - my first winter ascent. As I descended, however, I became more ill, and reluctantly agreed to a helicopter rescue. Continuing with impaired vision was life-threatening.

There are discussions among mountaineers as to whether you have ‘really’ climbed a mountain should you require assistance such as a helicopter ride on the way down. I understand the point of view of the purists, yet I did feel pride in having stood on the summit of ‘Mother’s necklace’.